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| Digital Camera "Welcome to the photograph place. This is the place to discuss, learn, and share information and photographs taken with your digital camera." |
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Does the camera have a close up mode?
It will look like a "black tulip" or flower (at least on my camera). Found this: The Right arrow turns the Macro (close-up) mode on and off - Looks like a flower Digital Cameras - Sony CyberShot DSC-H1 Digital Camera Review, Information, Specifications
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Hunter Pro Garrett Ace 250 Vibra Probe 560 |
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Sony Cybershots with the "tulip" selection allow setting for macro-photography. Macro is more of a flat field than regular photography.
You can do some manner of close-up photography with a Sony Cybershot, but not what is needed for very small details like hallmarks etc. The thing you need for really close, close-ups of very small objects is a diopter (or more properly a set of diopters). I have a +1, +2, +4, +7 and +10 for my cameras. For most cameras the diopter simply screws into the filter thread of the lens. Not the thing for these new-fangled digital cameras like Sony Cybershots. The problem is that the lens stows inside the camera and pokes out when it is set to photography mode. Sony sells an attachment that screws into the threads around the lens opening. It is a tube that allows the camera lens to travel without touching the filter or diopter. You would think that purchasing the adapter would set you up. Not so. Sony sells the adapter and it has a filter thread of 30 mm. There are no filters or diopters out there at 30 mm - not even from Sony. What is out there is 37 mm. So you have to go onto the internet and find a Bower 30-37 mm adapter. That being done you are in business to take pictures of very tiny things. Attached is a picture taken of a link of a necklace that attaches the clasp to the chain. It has the country of origin and the content of the chain (Italy 10K gold). The piece is about .175 inches long. The photo was taken with a Sony Cybershot DSC-W7. I used a small tabletop tripod, the VAD-WA adapter, Bower 30-37 mm adapter and a +10 and +7 diopter. Because there is no way to use a cable release I used the self-timer mode. Set everything up, push the button and back away. Hopefully everything will stop shaking by the time the shutter clicks. Regular camera folks can just buy diopters for their normal filter rings and go.
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Quote:
You have that absolutely right. The one fixed rule I have learned about photography is, "there is never enough light!". I use a pair of high intensity desk lamps (about $5 ea. at discount store) with the flexible stems for close-up photos of things. I make the setup and put the lights at 45 degree angles on either side of the camera. Then based on what the subject is, adjust the lights looking into the LCD screen for best detail. I usually try one shot with the camera flash - and keep it if it works out. One thing really great about digital cameras is that you are no longer tied to a low ASA rating of a film. As long as you can keep the camera and subject steady you just have to integrate longer. Back to the original question from 1911d - the photos were, "...dark and clear or light and fuzzy". That suggests there is not enough light and an interaction with depth of field. The dark photos are probably at an high f-stop number with additional depth of field and the light photos have the iris open to the maximum and less depth of field. Actual focus is probably behind the subject and the camera probably can't focus as short as desired. Additional light and depth of field problems would occur if the lens were zoomed toward telephoto. The more telephoto the less light and the less depth of field.
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Last edited by johnj45586; 08-21-2007 at 01:03 PM. Reason: add comment about original question |
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