New Detector

Just had my new omega 8000 delivered to me yesterday.
I was needing something a little lighter and after several weeks of searching the net for reviews I decided to go with it.
If anyone uses the omega and has any tips on learning it I would love to hear them to make things go a little smoother in the learning the machine process.
here is a few I picked up off different forums ( a lot of them are from Monte)

I believe the general consensus is to use discrimination around 16 for the best unmasking while still eliminating nails. I usually try to run discrimination of 1 with 2 tones for older sights. If I am in a trashy area or a tot lot, I run discrimination of 16 with 4 tone.
The d2 mode will go deeper than the d3 or d4 mode. The modulated sound of the d2 mode is a favorite of mine when I'm in areas with deeper and older things potentially, not to mention lots of iron. The d3 and d4 modes are probably best suited for parks. You will listen for beeps between the trash there (I hear). I always check my targets in mode d4 though, and listen for a crisp clear sound. That helps to narrow down most coin finds. Also, the d3 and d4 modes are amplified, you may think they are as deep or deeper than the d2 mode but it's not true. A soft sounding hit in d2 mode might get softer or nothing in d3 or d4 mode.
The one thing I've noticed (many test done) clad nickles and gold rings (heavy and thin) always TID at 57/58 and everyone's favorite...the pulltab consistently rings in at 54/55 depending on style.
If you can handle the bass tones of iron, I would recommend you try hunting with no discrimination so as you don't miss anything in the iron. If you do want to use discrimination the magic number is around 16 for maximum unmasking. I generally run no discrimination as I find most coins are around iron, so it helps me to know when to pay closer attention.
Auto tune all metal mode is threshold based. I use it quite often in clean ground to get the stuff beyond the disc modes depth. Since it is tied to the sensitivity control it does not allow for setting gain and threshold independently. This does not seem to be a problem depth wise, I have run higher sens settings (louder hum) and the depth does not seem to improve over a slight hum setting. The VCO audio is very informative allowing me to pass up most hot rocks and ALL the cold rocks that give the overshoot or boing response. You will have to experiment by digging all threshold changes to understand what it is saying but the learning curve is pretty short. The best part is the ID capability in AT, after removing some dirt the ID kicks in and you can eliminate digging iron if so desired.
If you ever need parts or service for the Teknetics 8000 try Keith Wills at East Texas Metal Detectors.

I always set my Omega this way:
Disc on AT
Turning on the MD -> SENS up til I hear the noise.
GroundGrab pressed I "pump" the MD between the ground and 20" up until the Ground reading is "stable" (the reading will differ of course depending on the soil and conditions)
DISC clockwise till 00 (no discrimination)
SENS to maximum (no scattering sounds) (sometimes I change FREQ to have the MD silent)
TONE to D2 ( in this setting Iron sounds different from all other metals)
Now I still hear the Iron which gives me information on ground conditions. Rusty Iron tends to sound like other metal in one way of swinging over it. Just turn a bit and swing again, if its ironish, you'll hear it but you would NOT have when using DISC.
I dig up every stable beep with the higher tone (the not-iron tone).
With the following settings/conditions:
GB 50-60
No Fe3 bars
Max sensitivity
d2 mode
No discrimination (not all metal mode)
11" DD coil
My experiences
I'm consistently digging dime sized or slightly larger coins at 4" - 6". They are generally copper and occasionally silver. They hit hard and solid, unless on edge.

Use the All Metal Mode (AT) and watch the signal strength meter. If you get a tone, but the signal meter does not move or moves just a little, DIG IT !
Very deep gold and silver coins won't ID (or ID low as iron) so go by it's size and signal strength. You may dig some trash, but the coins you find that way will make your heart skip a beat.
"Threshold" adjustment for the All Metal Auto-Tune mode is New
made using the Sensitivity control on your Omega 8000. The variable gain/sensitivity for the Discriminate mode is a somewhat different function and, yes, it can be run at '99' when there isn't any nearby EMI. I always run my Sensitivity as high as possible while remaining stable, but only in the motion-based Discriminate mode.

In the auto-tuned All Metal mode, the Omega will be operating at "full gain possible" when you have adjusted for a slight audio 'hum' or Threshold setting. That will often be somewhere between about '68' and '72' depending upon the headphones used or outside ambient noise if you're relying on the detector's speaker w/o headphones. When I hunt in All Metal, which I do from time-to-time, I'm usually set at about '69'-'70'-'71' as it's all rather close and it works fine for me. Roughly, you can just call it '70' and be close.

Note that on Page 12 of your Owner's manual, under Sensitivity, sub-part d. it states:

"The Sensitivity has two ranges. From 0 to 70, the sensitivity increases on a linear scale. Above 71 (I'm sure they mean from 71 and above) the sensitivity threshold level starts changing. At values greater than 70, some internal circuit noise will be noticed. the higher the number, the higher the background "static" will be. many seasoned detectorists prefer to operate at high sensitivity level, with the accompanying noise. They call this "working into the noise." When some background level of noise is audible, small changes in the volume and tone will denote the presence of buried metal."

Note, however, that it doesn't state which operating "mode" you are in when this adjustment is made, exceptthe next category is the Discriminate/AT Autotune description and the a. instruction tells you to:

"Click counterclockwise to the AT icon to enter the Auto Tune mode."

So, as I am working on an operators manual of my own design, I hope to clarify and make sure everything is clear. By the Page 12 suggestions, at this point, it is a little confusing to many I'm sure. As a rule I describe the Sensitivity control a bit differently and the above description would be applied to searches made in the Discriminate mode. As instructed on Page #11 under "Powering Up" they suggest keeping the sensitivity below 70 until you become comfortable with the detector's operation. Again, this is because most people will search mainly in the motion Discriminate mode (generally "silent search" unless they run the gain (sensitivity) level too high which can cause noise or static or instability.

When hunting in the motion-based Discriminate mode, the Sensitivity control setting will not only determine the maximum depth of detection, but higher settings (as you can easily note with some bench or air-testing) will also saturate the overall signal response and it will thus be less 'modulated.' Many like to hunt at a lower to mid-range Sensitivity setting because they like to hear the more modulated audio. That's what I like about hunting in the d2 Audio option. When searching using the d4 Tone ID selection, I favor the highest Sensitivity simply because (due to my hearing) I like the more saturated response from most detectable targets in d4.

Now, as for that "THRESHOLD" matter you asked about. Yes, a Threshold is what we associate with the All Metal (Auto-Tune) mode and if you refer to Page #15 in the Owner's Manual, under "How to Ground Balance your detector:" it states:

"1. Turn the detector On and select the AT (Auto-Tune or All Metal ) mode."

Then, in #3, you:

"Rotate the SENS knob to a point where you hear a slight background hum."

This instruction is easily missed by many readers as it is brief and since two functions are tied into the use of the Sensitivity control, many can easily get lost.

So, there you go. In the Disc. mode, using any of the 4 Audio/Tone ID options, the Sensitivity control can be increased as low as you desire for reduced depth and limited target response, or as high as you choose as long as there isn't any "noise" or "chatter." Using higher Sensitivity settings, especially above about '70' will add to the saturation of the audio response you hear from mid-to-deep targets.

In the All Metal Auto-Tune mode, as explained in the manual, you will be able to achieve maximum target detection depth. This is best achieved if you set the detector for a "nice and proper" slight audio threshold hum, and that is accomplished by adjusting the Sensitivity control. It's just a function that is tied in with that control and is NOT a sensitivity adjustment as you're used to.
With the T2, for example, you have a "Hum' or Threshold level adjustment AND a Sensitivity adjustment. Actually, you have a Sensitivity adjustment for BOTH the All Metal as well as the Discriminate mode so they can be set differently. With your Omega, just presume that if you choose the AT All Metal mode you're "factory perset" for maximum Sensitivity (to get the best depth possible) and your influence on that is to adjust the Threshold or Hum level. Since the Sensitivity control is not functioning as such in that mode, it is used to set the All Metal Threshold level.
the Omega with the 11 inch dd does like rusty bottle caps. I have got into an area that people must have had a beer party. First thing I noticed was the numbers. Seemed that rusty caps would be at 86-87 and less than three inches in pinpoint. With any other coins at the three inch depth, a zinc is 78, a copper memorial is 82 and a clad dime is 84. The Omega locks hard on shallow coins with the numbers and if the numbers differ from these numbers, it is 9 times out of ten a rusty bottle cap. It is hard not to dig a high tone or number in the 80's, but I have found shallow 86 or 87 numbers are bottle caps. It is not much to go on, but after digging a hundred 87 numbers, I have found all but a couple to be caps.
tip for steel bottle caps:

When I get a dime-quarter signal, I will re-sweep using only the tip of my coil, if the target still registers dime-quarter, I dig, if the VDI falls into the 60's, it is probably one of those pesky caps. This is still a study in progress as I am a new owner with the Omega. Hope this helps.

While not fool proof your method of ID'ing bottlecaps works for me as well. To take it a bit further, on shallower relatively loud hits, sweeping the tip of the coil an inch or so off the bottlecap should give an iron reading while coins will still read as non-ferrous albeit a much lower reading.
Those deeper softer hitting bottlecaps are still dug

Most of our recent mid and upper range Teknetics and Fisher metal detectors use a signal processing algorithm which is very good in many ways, but does "like bottlecaps" a little more than some other ID algorithms. Not that the steel bottlecap problem is unique to our machines, most modern VLF machines exhibit it to some degree esp. when using a DD searchcoil.

My personal steel bottlecap trick is to turn the searchcoil into the vertical plane and sweep all the way across the target. A coin will usually give a double hit and will usually ID both hits in the range which is normal for that type of target. In other words it will usually more or less agree with the ID you got will sweeping over the target in the normal manner.

Trash of irregular shape will tend to depart more from the ID you got in the normal sweep. Steel bottlecaps will usually ID down into the iron range when you do this.

This technique works better with smaller searchcoils than with larger ones.
"Note: GROUND GRAB will not automatically balance over highly conductive
soils, such as a wet salt water beach. Automatic balancing is not possible
in soils with gound values less than 40. The screen will display -- and
an alarm will sound if over metal or in ground with a value less than 40.

When manually ground balancing, try to feel out a spot on the ground
to make sure there is no metal present. In order to avoid locking onto
metal, the detector will not ground grab where the GROUND setting is
less than 40. Where the ground reads less than 40, the ground value is
displayed as --, and manual ground balancing is required."
Personally, I use the d2 two-tone Audio ID in the Discriminate mode most of the time, unless I'm hitting a typical site with an abundance (I hope) of change, such as a wood-chip or sand-filled playground. In those cases, and a few others, I prefer d4 as that Tone ID function works great with US coins.
Disc '16' is the critical/pinnacle for max unmasking capabilities for the Omega

Most serious 'relic hunters,' or even coin hunters who like to seek out the deeper coins and/or go for coins and other targets that might be at mid-depth or deeper and won't give a proper visual TID, often like the d1 or d2 options because there is a lot of valuable audio tone information provided, and some of us find them to provide just a little bit more functional depth-of-detection of the four available Tone ID options.

Okay, let's first take a look at the d1 and d2 offerings on the Omega 8000. This information is provided on Page 18 of the Owner's Manual, in general, and I'll add a bit of my personal opinions for what it's worth. Remember, too, that the Tone ID options only apply to the motion Discriminate mode.

The d1 option is described as: "Medium-to-high pitch tone, varying in proportion to target signal strength. Large shallow objects will produce a squeal. The variable audio pitch provides you more information about the detected object. Volume and Pitch increase with increase in signal strength."

Monte's Interpretation of the d1 function: A decent modulated audio varying from weak (deepest /smallest) to strong (shallow/large), and incorporating a VCO-like audio on mid-to-shallow targets. In addition to the standard modulated audio (volume of audio response) to help define target size and potential depth, the variable audio pitch (squeal) on larger or shallower targets can provide additional information to suggest size and depth (or lack of).

In the d1 Tone function, ALL targets, ferrous or non-ferrous, will produce a similar sound with regard to signal response based on target depth or distance from the coil for typically desired (coin-like) target sizes. They all sound somewhat alike, except those targets that are rejected (Discriminated) will not produce and audio response. So, if you're the type who uses a rather high level of Discrimination that knocks out all Iron and even some small Foil targets, then d1 can work for you to provide a little better depth of detection if you listen for the weaker, softer responses..

The d2 Tone option is blessing for those of us who like to "hear-it-all" because we hunt with no Discrimination (a setting of '1') or only partial iron rejection. Personally, I like to know what is in the area. If a site is rather clean with very few iron targets or even non-iron trash, then maybe a d3 or d4 search choice for some would be fine. However, good-target masking can be a terrible thing, and iron-based targets can cause the greatest amount of target masking. Also, if I am searching any site that might have had buildings torn down or burned down, or the type of activity that would have had nails scattered from opening boxes, or any other amount of iron debris scattered about, I want to know the iron is there so I can better concentrate and listen for any 'iffy' or 'questionable' signal in amongst the iron.

Therefore, I like to hunt with a Discriminate setting of '1' so I can hear everything, and the d2 Tone ID option works just like d1 with the following difference. In addition to the variable higher-pitched Volume (loudness) and squeal (variable pitch from shallower targets) you get from Non-Iron targets, the iron junk usually produces a low-tone (bass like) regardless of the signal strength.

So, d1 and d2 have the ability to provide a little better depth of detection of the four audio tone options becayuse they rely on a good modulated response, and they have the added pitch function on shallower targets, and the d2 function alerts the operator to probable iron junk. The Sensitivity
level will have a bearing mainly on the overall depth of detection and not affect the modulated response as much as with the d3 and d4 tone options.

The d3 and d4 Tone ID options really aren't for many hobbyists. That is, with the d3 a and d4 Tone ID functions, as Monte describes them, means the d3 feature produces three (3) levels of audio tones: A Low "bass" Tone for Iron, a Medium Tone for Foil, 5¢, Pull Tabs, Screw Caps and Zinc 1¢, and a High Tone for 10¢, 25¢, 50¢ and $1 coins as well as better Copper 1¢ coins. The d3 option is 'standard' on the omega in the Discriminate mode because most hobbyists are coin hunters and a bunch of them don't want junk. Therefore, they will often just listed for the High Tone to recover and maybe investigate the Medium Tone visually because there are a lot of trash targets that have similar conductivities to the US Zinc 1¢ and 5¢ coins.

But I think many (most?) hobbyists use too much discrimination anyway and will often reject Iron junk and even adjust up into the low-end of the Foil range. Therefore, the d3 option is really just providing two-tones because they have rejected the low Tone (Bassy) for Iron.

The d4 Tone ID function, again as I describe it, is the same as d3 except the 4th audio tone is a Mid-High Tone response that is assigned for the US 5¢ (and other targets with similar conductive properties such as most rectangular pry-tabs and some metal pencil eraser tops, etc.). Naturally, you only get the 4-Tone ID option IF you are accepting ALL target conductivity levels, and that includes all Iron targets. In many urban coin hunting applications, such as in wood-chip or sand-filled playgrounds that can generate a lot of coin loss (by others) and recovery (by us), I enjoy using the d4 option because I am concentrating on a coins location, but also includes other "good stuff" such as gold and silver jewelry, costume jewelry, and such.

I like d4 a lot because even though a lot of gold jewelry and other neat 'stuff' might fall in some of the trash areas, as you master the Omega and use good headphones you listen closely, do a little checking in Pinpoint or by raising the coil slightly on questionable targets, you can often make a correct call in classifying a desired find from common trash. Always? No, but more often than some might think.

So, if you like to hear whats in the ground and accept almost everything with Discrimination, then you can benefit from a 3 or 4 tone audio response. In addition, these two Tone ID functions differ from d1 and d2 even more because they benefit from some different filtering or processing. With the Sensitivity control of the Omega you are not only increasing the potential depth of detecting, but with higher settings you are also adding to the audio saturation on deeper targets. that is, with a low Sensitivity setting of say 30, you willm hear a louder, stronger response from a shallower targets and as the coil-to-target distance increases the audio response is definitely more 'modulated.' That is, it will modulate in signal strength and get weaker and weaker and the target distance increases.

With the Sensitivity control increases closer to maximum, however, you will lose the modulated audio as the circuitry will saturate the target response (some manufacturers have called this "signal boost" or "pre-amp gain' or just "saturation"). When hunting in many places, I like the higher Sensitivity settings when using d4. In such places as the wood-chip playgrounds where there is a lot of material getting kicked and moved about causing some coins to easily relocate deeper, you can easily toe-scuff the material to get the mid-to-deep coins and you can hear them easier, too, because the high Sensitivity settings saturate or boost the audio strength on deeper targets.

Now, if you're an "average" hobbyist and newer to learning more about your detector, you might think that this nifty saturated audio response is a great thing. You might suppose that a stronger audio response would make finding deeper targets much better. to that I can only say, while in some applications it can be useful, don't be fooled into thinking it will enhance overall target depth because it doesn't.

In order for the d3 and d4 Tone ID modes to function well you have to have a certain amount of initial target signal strength. In short, it takes 'X' amount of signal in order to process into a more saturated audio. A difference, too, is how these two Tone ID model function of the processes by which they work in general. There is just different filtering or whatever you want to technically call the process differences between the d3 and d4 Tone ID functions from the very modulated d1 and d2 audio functions.

The All Metal mode will be your deepest seeking mode. The d1 and d2 Audio functions in the Discriminate mode will be your second deepest seeking modes. The d3 and d4 Tone ID features might saturate the audio to a louder response with a higher Sensitivity setting, but overall they will not seek quite as deeply as the All Metal or even the d1 and d2 audio functions.

Certainly a lot will depend upon the operator's hearing abilities, the headphones in use, the Discrimination and Sensitivity settings, etc., etc. Thankfully, we're each individually a little different and the Omega provides ample audio tone options to satisfy most of use. For some, such as me, that satisfaction comes from using d2 most of the time when I am searching a more open area, looking for anything there, wanting to have good depth and appreciating both the modulated audio response along with the pitch enhancement on shallow targets and the lower 'bass-tone' audio from Iron because I hunt with a '1' level of Discrimination ... almost always.

For urban coin hunting tasks, especially, I then opt for the informative d4 Tone ID because I can still hear Iron and potential 5¢ US coins get the enhanced Mid-High Tone. Most coins are shallower and are well defined in size and shape and this adds to the benefits of quickly finding most commonly lost coins in high-use areas.

You said "more target info or clarity or lack there of in the d3 mode .... (at least on shallower targets).

That is very correct for the d3 and d4 Tone ID functions because they are at their best on shallower targets because they those will get the most audio saturation and bold response. This is especially true if there is enough EMI at a site that you need to reduce the Sensitivity to a lower level such as about 55-65 because the audio saturation and depth of detection will be reduced from a higher Sensitivity setting.

That said, there are many situations where you will appreciate the slightly better depth of detection as well as the modulate and (as you stated "longer sound") provided by the d2 audio function. There are times for both the d1 & d2 Audio options to be mated with either one of the d3 or d4 Tone ID options. Note that I use the reference to Audio function and Tone ID function as I personally separate these two different sets of or pairs of target response selections.

I hope that I provided a useful answer to your questions, or some others might have had, with my above reply. We all need to keep in mind that there is no such thing as a 'perfect' detector, and certainly no 'perfect' hunting site situation, so it is great that :teknetics: provided Audio/Tone selections we have to choose from. In your case, if you like using the d3 option, consider where most of your coins tend to fall because it will differ from what we have here in the US. It might be that the d4 can impress you a little more than d3 because it will add at least a little variety, especially if any coins are falling in that Mid-High Tone assigned for US 5¢ coins.
I have found almost all of the nickles will be 56 to 57. If it is 57 to 58 it is almost always junk.

Now, one thing I noticed shortly after working with the Omega and the stock 10" concentric coil is that some small pieces of foil can register with a high-pitched audio and show a '99' VDI. Again, I've experienced similar responses before with some other models, with the thin foil targets appearing to the detector's analysis circuitry as a weak-reading, deep, higher-conductive target, but it's usually fairly easy to "qualify' the target. A '99' would be a high-conductive target and you can check by using the Pinpoint function and note the suggested "coin depth" and then raise he search coil while in the motion Discriminate mode. Usually, raising the coil only 1"-2" results in is a target that disappears, or it will produce a 'correct" target ID in the Foil range and accompanying audio tone.
If I am just clad hunting at newer school yards, parks and tot lots, I set sen. at 75-80 and leave the d3 tones as is and the g/b at factory, 82. On older sites for silver coin hunting, when ever I can, and seldom can't, I run sen. at 99, disc. 1, get a good g/b and run d3-4 tones. When I run into some in-stability, I'll go to the frequency shift first and often this helps quiet the Omega a good bit. If still a good deal of chatter, I use some disc. usually 16, and then began to lower sen. I can handle some chatter
wow thanks dld that outta keep me busy for awhile. lol
Yeah that monte is a good guy and knows his detectors for sure, I did a search trying to find what would be a good setting for someone just starting with the omega but didn't have any luck.

Thanks again I do appreciate it.
for starting out I would Ground Balance, do all metal (no discrimination) and A3 with the sensitivity around 70 and dig everything

if you want to discriminate then Ground Balance, disc at 55( most all iron metals disc out) sensitivity as high as it will go with out falseing 70 and up to 99

Good luck
My sincere compliments...

Hi dld
My sincere compliments for a superb contribution!
I am a newbie and just got my omega about the same time like Ricky.
We both have the same concerns and getting ready to use our new toy.

Dld – you did answer just about all the questions I had before!
Great to have folks like you on the NET – you sure spent a lot of time for all of us - beginners and first time users.
(a friendly hello to my friend rounderrick)
Have a nice day - santurinos
A very informative post, I think anyone running the Omega would find it very useful, good job on compiling the tips list.:bthumb:
I finally got around to getting an Omega and I love it, light weight joy to swing even with the 11" D.D. coil, deep hitting unit, large easy to read ID screen and easy to set up and run, Id numbers seem very accurate, overall nice unit for the price range.


Well-Known Member
I wish I had some info on it..but I am clueless, I have never seen or used one... I think the thought of having one of each detector is flat out that is unless I hit the lottery... but I have heard alot of good reviews from those that have the t2 and omega ... I hope you find tones of awesome finds too.
I wish I had some info on it..but I am clueless, I have never seen or used one... I think the thought of having one of each detector is flat out that is unless I hit the lottery... but I have heard alot of good reviews from those that have the t2 and omega ... I hope you find tones of awesome finds too.
Hey bootybay, thanks but since I wrote this I got rid of the omega and now have an at pro.
No fault at all of the omega I just wanted the pro and can't afford to have 2 detectors right now.
I know nothing about the t2 but the omega is a great detector I found a lot of coins with it actually I've done found more this year than my total was last year and I owe most of that to the omega it's a coin killer in the parks. I really miss it but I'm happy with the Garretts too.
Hey bootybay, thanks but since I wrote this I got rid of the omega and now have an at pro.
No fault at all of the omega I just wanted the pro and can't afford to have 2 detectors right now.
I know nothing about the t2 but the omega is a great detector I found a lot of coins with it actually I've done found more this year than my total was last year and I owe most of that to the omega it's a coin killer in the parks. I really miss it but I'm happy with the Garretts too.
I finally got an Omega Rick and still have my AT Pro, I like them both.
I finally got an Omega Rick and still have my AT Pro, I like them both.
Coyote I was wondering if you still have the Omega 8000? I am also in central Illinois and I was wondering the depth of coins in our soil? I have a tesoro silver umax and was wondering if it will hit deeper on coins? I usually don't get much deeper than 5-6 inches. Thanks Dan
In my test bed my Omega hits solid on a dime at 6 inches but has trouble on the 9 inch dime and probably if I was out detecting would miss it it. So I would say in my area and soil 7-8 inch is max and depends on the moisture content and possibly halo as my test bed is only about a year old. I use my Omega for most of my hunting unless I'm hunting an older site where I know the deep ones are then I use my CZ-3D.

Dirtfishing's youtube videos is what prompted me to get an Omega.