Mineralization definition?

[DonF]

I know this'll sound like a naive question, but what constituted mineralize ground. I'll research what it means in a little, but I thought I'd throw it out here first, before I research.

If I'm in a park, how do I know if the ground is 'highly mineralized' or not. What makes the ground mineralized? Is it salt content. How about a beach. If I'm going to reset my controls on a DFX, in relation to the ground content, how will I know? What tells you that the ground is highly mineralized?

Just trying to build my knowledge database.

[JoAnne]

Good question Don. I am curious about the answer also.

[Gregory]

Most areas I hunt in south west PA are highly mineralized with coke hot rocks, coal ash and other stuff.
You really do need to find out what your ground has in it.
Most home sites are OK but I do mostly wooded old home sites and the ground can be tricky at sites like this.
I used an Whites XLT for 7 years and it could not handle these ground conditions at all (ask JohnWPA) I then purchased the Minelab II / SE and it has no problem in these conditions.

Give our sponsors a shout, I'm sure they can help you decide whats best for you in your area.

[bill(de)]

Since no responses yet i'm gonna try to answer as best i can in amateur speak and post a url from the man, Mr. George Payne who was one of pioneers in the development of the modern motion, discrimination detectors we enjoy today.
Mineralized ground is either natural or man-made and sometimes a combination of both. Hotrocks,natural minerals,decomposing iron,modern fertilizers all contribute towards the so called mineralized soil. At the ocean beaches the detector reacts to salt which is a mineral as a lower conductive metal and will produce either a solid beep response or just go nuts coming off the dry sand , especially with high sensitivty settings

Some of our parks and other sites were possibly backfilled with demolition from all types of old construction and will cause hissy fits to detectors and many of us consider that mineralized conditions.

If you are in highly mineralized soil many detectors become unstable and will not be stable at the factory presets for normal use. Some detectors can ground balance out some of the mineralization but many can't and you must lower sensitivity settings and use smaller concentric or DD coils etc. to hunt these sites.

If using a detector that has no ground balance adjustment and the factory has established what is the best overall setting you only adjust (lower) sensitivity and raise discrimination levels to help overcome the mineralization

If using a detector that has a manual or automatic Ground Balance ,you find the cleanest ground you can find in 0 disc or all metal and GB at that spot adjust sensitivity and hunt but allow for some possible falsing.

If using a ground tracking detector is best IMHO to take a few swings in the cleanest ground you can find and lock GB when detector is most stable and adjust sensitivity to particular site.

Here's a perfect explanation of the knowlege that developed our modern detectors GB system.
http://www.buriedcrap.com/buriedcrap...n&ContentID=56

Not sure if this ithe answer Don but it's best i can come up with. HH Bill

[DonF]

Originally Posted by Gregory

Most areas I hunt in south west PA are highly mineralized with coke hot rocks, coal ash and other stuff.
You really do need to find out what your ground has in it.
Most home sites are OK but I do mostly wooded old home sites and the ground can be tricky at sites like this.
I used an Whites XLT for 7 years and it could not handle these ground conditions at all (ask JohnWPA) I then purchased the Minelab II / SE and it has no problem in these conditions.

Give our sponsors a shout, I'm sure they can help you decide whats best for you in your area.

Ok Greg. thanks again.

To those who may know the answer to what Greg was saying, I live right on the Jersey Shore. I know I have a salt water beach, but as for the land, for example, parks, school grounds, what kind of ground might that be and how can I evaluate it? Is there a "norm" for the northeast coast soil?