Making Right Choices... Choosing The Right Metal Detector
Introduction
Selecting the right metal detector can be confusing, There are many
different brands and models to choose from, with just as many variations
in features, options, and prices.
Reading ads in the treasure and prospecting magazines isn't much
help, especially if you're unfamiliar with the high tech terminology
and jargon being used. Besides, according to them every detector
is the perfect one. Taking advice from "expert" friends,
relatives, or fellow club members isn't much better, as they are
probably only familiar with a few models themselves.
So how can you be assured of making the "right" choice?
How can you distinguish what is fact from advertising hype, and
be able to discern the well meaning advice of others? What can you
do to ensure that your choice will be based on sound knowledge and
good judgment and not on impulse or misplaced faith? Which brand
or model detector you choose or how much money you spend is not
important at this point. Guidelines must first be established in
order to avoid costly errors in the selection process. TIP: Making
a selection based upon brand or how much a detector costs could
lead to a very expensive, even devastating mistake.
What Will You Be Hunting For?
Metal detecting is multi-faceted, providing many avenues of exploration.
So, the first step is to determine your areas of interest. Next,
list them according to their importance in relationship to the amount
of time you will be devoting to each. Is your main interest in searching
for coins and rings, relies from ghost towns and battle fields,
caches concealed for safe keeping, gold nugget prospecting, shallow
water hunting, or scuba diving? Once you've identified your interests,
you can begin to match them with various metal detectors. In short, there
are detectors that do much better at certain tasks. These are specialty
detectors and they should be given the highest priority of consideration
if you will be primarily performing one specific kind of detecting
over another. This is especially true if you will be spending a
lot of money traveling in order to metal detect. For example: you
probably' won't need to purchase a specialty metal detector for
prospecting if you're just going to make a stop for the day. There are
several detector models available that will do an excellent job
at nugget hunting and serve as a superior coin detector upon your
return. However, if your trip is specifically for nugget hunting,
that's not the time to scrimp on the detector you use. In this case
you will not want to compromise on the detector's gold hunting capability.
It would be foolish to spend a lot of money on a trip and then go
ill-equipped. It could turn out to be as disastrous as going elk
hunting with a .22 caliber rifle.
Where Will You Be Hunting?
How you will be using the metal detector is important. Will you use it
with the control housing on the pole ("pole mount"), or
do you plan to make the pole easier to handle by removing the control
housing and strapping it on your body ("belt/body mount")?
How easily will it convert from one configuration to the other?
Will you be using the detector for long durations at a time or just
short stops? Will you use it in competition hunts? These are big
considerations as the weight and convertibility of the detector
may be a major factor in your decision. Also consider environmental
conditions: dry and dusty, or wet and humid? Will you be metal detecting
in well-maintained residential and public use areas or in remote,
rugged locations? Will it be in thick brush on a wide open sandy
beach or in rocky steep terrain?
Ground condition is another critical consideration. Will you be
metal detecting salt water beaches or in heavily mineralized ground? Will
you be working in just one type of area or in a variety of conditions?
Different applications and conditions call for different types of
metal detectors and general purpose instruments cannot always provide
the performance needed in extreme environments.
TIP: Determining what conditions you will be operating the detector
in will guide you to selecting one that will be able to handle the
worst scenario.
The Right Tool For The Job
Knowing your detector's limitations is equally important. It is
not necessarily bad to select a detector which cannot handle certain
conditions, since you may have little or no need to hunt in these.
However, it is unjust to subject a detector to conditions for which
it was not designed and then expect it to operate at peak performance.
Although many detectors will work well at most tasks, they simply
cannot provide the performance of today's specialty detectors:
Specialty detectors are specifically engineered to excel while performing
a particular type of detecting task. Their features have been designed
to provide the operator with the kinds of functions necessary to
handle each unique condition and accomplish specialized operational
needs. It would also be unjust to expect a special use detector
to perform other tasks with equal results as one that is specifically
designed for the job.
TIP: You should ask if the metal detector is designed to do the type of
metal detecting you're primarily interested in, instead of simply asking
if it is capable of doing it. Then, you might inquire as to whether
or not the detector is suitable for performing your secondary detecting
desires.
Assess Your Knowledge
Before going any further in the selection process, you must be honest
about your level of knowledge and experience about metal detecting. Even if you are an
experienced detectorist, chances are that you will benefit by doing
a bit of extra research before investing in a new instrument.
Detector technology is constantly changing, and even the most advanced
detectors of a few years ago are virtual "dinosaurs" today.
The key is to be able to determine which models are truly new and
improved and which are merely repackaged outdated designs made to
look current.
Updating old designs is often accomplished by the addition of microprocessors,
LCD lights, or fancy LCD meters. Each of these items add "pizzazz"
to an old detector design, but add little or nothing to its actual
performance capabilities. Detectorist are often inclined to be loyal
to a particular brand-an understand- able sentiment and one we appreciate
our- selves! However, this can be a serious error if superior or
equal performance with a better warranty can be obtained elsewhere.
Changing technology can quickly overcome experience, so don't outsmart
your- self by assuming there is nothing new you need to know. Do
your homework. Knowledge is the best substitute for experience.
No matter how long you've been metal detecting or how many
metal detectors you've owned, things change.
What Are You Paying For?
If metal detecting is something new to you, it pays to be especially careful.
Even though you're eager to get started, avoid the urge to buy until
you know that you are ready. Shortcuts such as buying what a trusted
friend uses or what someone else has recommended may work out. However,
if such friendly recommendations are given from personal preference,
brand loyalty, third hand word-of-mouth, or a catchy ad and are
not based on direct experience or knowledge, you may end up being
disappointed with your purchase. Chances are those same people would
do new research before making another purchase themselves. Buying
the "top-of-the-line" metal detector may not be a safe shortcut
either. The most expensive detector may provide more razzle-dazzle,
but it does not ensure better performance, just more gadgets and
marketing innovations.
Gadgets and innovations are expensive and normally confusing to
a beginner. At first they may seem simple enough. Their features
may even give the feeling of "how can I do without them?"
But learning how to use them properly and to discern the information
they provide you with may be confusing at best and can result in
a loss of finds. What looks good on the surface may not be of benefit
at all. The graphic display or elaborateness of a read-out is not
an indicator of a meter's functionality, nor is it a sign of the
internal circuitry's capabilities. For example, a meter can give
a variable signal readout providing a lot of information about the
probable target. It can have a large number of digital segments
providing a good amount of target information, or, it could be an
inexpensive one that provides very few segments of target analysis.
It is hard to tell the quality of a component, the circuitry's ability,
or complexity of the microprocessors program just by looking. You
will not be able to identify a detector's limitations or true capabilities
without testing it or talking with someone who has.
TIP: Just because one model has a fancy meter doesnt mean
it works better than another one.
Making a "bargain" purchase may prove fatal to your
metal detecting as well. You need to find out if it is a current model that is still
being made, or if it is one that has been discontinued and soon
to be replaced by new technology. Take your time, be patient and
persistent in your research. Don't let anyone pressure you into
a quick and costly decision. And most of all, check the warranty
and service reputation of the manufacturer. Service after the sale
is invaluable. That's why so many companies offer ex- tended warranties
on such a wide variety of products. A company's warranty not only
indicates the kind of service you can expect to receive down the
road, but it also reveals the faith that a company has in its own
product durability.
Different Types Of Detectors
In order to properly qualify a metal detector and match it to your requirements,
you should be aware of the various types of metal detectors available
and how they might apply to your own detecting activities. Notice
the word types, rather than models or brands. Before making any
choices become familiar with terms and the types of detectors.
Several types of detectors are manufactured and are in use today.
And though a particular type might be very popular, that doesn't
mean it will fit your needs. In fact, early in your investigation,
you will begin to realize that certain detectors are simply unsuitable
for your purpose.
You will usually hear the terms VLF (or VLF/TR), Pulse (or PI),
or RF in reference to common, modern metal detector types. You will
also hear the term TR, which stands for transmitter-receiver, used
with different types of detectors. The terms TR, VLF and VLF/TR
can be confusing at first. The fact is they are all transmitter-receiver
detectors. The terms TR and VLF are merely used to provide an easy
way to distinguish the difference between the two. In electronics,
VLF stands for Very Low Frequency (3-30 kHz), but with metal detectors
the term is usually used to indicate a "mineral-free all metal"
mode of operation. TR stands for Transmitter/Receiver, but usually
indicates a "non-motion discriminate mode" of operation.
VLF/TR usually indicates "mineral-free all metal" and,
"mineral-free discriminate" operation. Although they have
their place, the higher frequency TRs are generally not competitive
with the latest VLF/TR's with silent search motion discriminators,
as they are unable to handle the problems imposed by mineralization
in the ground. TR's have long since given way to the superior ground-
effect control provided by the very low frequency (VLF) instruments.
TR's are normally restricted to use on non-mineralized salt water
beaches and for salt water diving as they are capable of ignoring
the effects caused by conductive salts, if properly tuned. Since
TR's cannot ground compensate for mineralization, they are incapable
of obtaining the depth achieved by the newer VLF type instruments
thus limiting them to finding only shallow surface targets when
used in mineralized areas. Whereas, the newer VLF/TR detectors do
ground compensate, thus accomplishing much greater depths of detection
when mineralization is present.
RF Two-box
RF two-box instruments are very specialized detectors that can respond
to large metallic objects at great depths. Cache hunters sometimes
find the two-box a useful tool, although almost all caches ate well
within the range of VLF/TR's equipped with large diameter search coils.
The two-box also sees action in prospecting when massive mineral
deposits are being sought and in a variety of industrial applications.
However, they cannot respond to coin-sized objects and are therefore
entirely limited to deep seeking tasks of large objects.
Pulse Induction
Great achievements have been made in PI (Pulse Induction) instruments.
Once limited to underwater diving, great technological strides have
been achieved by some manufacturers making this type of detector
popular among saltwater beach combers as well. Although the PI is
an "all metals" only detector, its popularity has increased
in areas where little trash is located and on black sand beaches
where PI out performs the VLF/TR since they are capable of ignoring
both conductive salts and mineralization simultaneously.
Recent developments in PI technology have brought about innovative
advancements like eliminating the annoying pulsing threshold sound
and new kinds of searchcoils. These searchcoils make it possible
for the first time for a PI detector to find previously undetectable
fine gold jewelry and to be used for hunting gold nuggets in alkali
and extreme hot rock areas, which are too difficult for the VLF/TR
instruments. These searchcoils are not only different on the inside,
but they are interchangeable in- stead of hard wired as in the past.
Though PI detectors get excellent depth on sandy and wet beaches,
some loss of depth will be experienced metal detecting when operated over hard,
dry ground. Because of this, PI detectors are normally used only
as secondary, specialty instruments and not as the primary detector,
One word of caution: this new PI technology is not universal and,
therefore, most manufacturers do not have it available yet. You
may need to check with a local dealer for more information.
Two other types are BFO (Beat Frequency Oscillator) and TR (Transmitter-Receiver).
Although once popular these two are no longer being made by professional
metal detector manufacturers. BFO's may still be around but they
are normally confined to cheap, toy type detectors.
Most Commonly Used Metal Detector
With all of these facts in mind, most detectorists will probably
choose a VLF/TR motion discriminator with silent search as their
primary machine. VLF/TR's with discriminators have the capability
of controlling trash and mineralization simultaneously. The word
motion indicates that the search- coil requires movement in order
for both ground control and discrimination to be achieved. No longer
is it necessary to rapidly swing or "whip" the searchcoil
back and forth as in the past. Today's motion discriminators require
very little movement of the searchcoil in order to identify a target.
This advancement has taken much of the fatigue out of metal detecting.
The better instruments also allow instant switching from the motion
Discriminate mode to a non-motion all metal, or Normal tune mode
for pinpointing, and for general purpose non-motion non-discriminate
hunting. Several innovations deserve special mention. Surface mount
technology has now opened the doors to miniaturization, permitting
extremely compact designs. A select number of detectors are now
available which utilize these hybrid circuit boards, though only
available through select manufacturers at this time. This great
achievement permits complex circuitry to be designed into small
control housings. This greatly reduces the weight and bulkiness
of the unit without sacrificing performance of the instrument. In
fact, when properly engineered, this innovation provides even greater
results, including virtually trouble-free operation.
Other innovations include: coin depth indication, target identification/interpretation,
and the notch filter discrimination. You will find details concerning
these features in the glossary and in special articles elsewhere
on this site. As you can see some highly desirable extras are offered,
but it is important to investigate them thoroughly before you buy.
High tech features can be expensive, driving the cost of a metal detector up dramatically. Therefore, it is important to determine
which, if any, of these additional features you will use and to
determine if they will actually enhance the detector's performance,
"Whistles and bells" are exciting but ask yourself if
they are really needed before you buy them.
Cost & Features
We now come to the matter of cost. Some magazine articles have approached
this subject on the basis of strict budgeting by determining the
performance you want, not whistles and bells, but performance. Then
based upon the type of metal detecting you will be doing, select the features
that best fit your detecting needs. Look through all the literature,
books, and advice you've collected and select the models that most
fit these needs. As you do so, remember these basic guidelines:
If you plan to concentrate on coin shooting, discrimination is essential.
For cache hunting, excellent depth and the option of larger searchcoils
will be needed. If your main interest is prospecting, you'll need
to be able to ground bal ance (ground compensate). Also, a non-motion
All Metal mode with a quick cutoff or fast auto tune is mandatory.
For ore sampling and pinpointing, a normal tune mode will be needed.
Again, carefully identify your needs. Then check the price ranges
of the various manufacturers for those models which can deliver
the kind of features that will meet these needs best. Separate them
according to features, performance and warranty. In doing this you
may find that some offer much more for your money than others. Keep
in mind that just be- cause a metal detector costs more does not mean
it performs better or is any more capable of going deeper. Each
manufacturer has their own built-in cost of doing business and each
has their own marketing and merchandising plans. Some are inexpensive
straight forward programs while others are quite elaborate and can
drive the cost of their products up considerably, even though they
do not offer any more performance. Just remember, there is no free
lunch. Every advertisement, promotion, Christmas package, or mail
order discount has all been factored into the suggested retail price
of their detectors. They simply increase the price in order to absorb
the increased costs from these special promotions and discounts.
That's called merchandising.
Some detectors may be imported, in which case there will be charges
for freight, customs, duty, banking fee's, etc., all added against
the price you will pay, while again, not providing any real performance
difference over other brands and models made in the USA.
What To Look For When You Read About Detectors
Accumulating information is easy, but getting the real facts is
much more difficult. Reading hobby related magazines is helpful.
However, they do not and cannot tell you if a metal detector is right
for your needs.
Field tests are good to review, but consider the source when reading
them. Sometimes a field tester is being polite in order not to upset
an advertiser. Therefore, field tests should be viewed as an overview
of the detector's general performance and not as a comparison to
its abilities against competitors. When reading a field test, check
to see if the writer makes original and meaningful statements about
the product. Look to see if they are paraphrasing the manufacturer's
buzz words and sales literature, or do they tell you how it really
works. Often you can tell from the way the report is written whether
the detector was genuinely impressive or just OK.
There are many books available about metal detecting that are a good source
of information. Though all will contain some basically correct information,
you will notice many contain biases toward a specific brand. That
is because a particular manufacturer may have provided the equipment,
funding, or printing for the book. In fact, there are metal detector
companies which own or have a vested interest in publishing companies
that print metal detecting and treasure oriented books. Obviously, if
a book constantly promotes a particular product, what you are reading
is really nothing more than an elaborate sales brochure.
Send for catalogs, data sheets and other literature. Read through
them and then reread them with a critical eye. Look for hard information
and straight talk about features and performance as well as meaningful
points of comparison. If necessary, write to the manufacturers with
particular questions you have. Expect to receive real answers in
straight terms, not double talk, without being pushed off to someone
else just to appease you.
Watch The Warranty!
Pay attention to warranties. Don't just look at what the warranty
card says, call the factory and ask direct questions about the things
they do and do not cover, such as: What is their hourly labor charge
should a heeded repair not be covered by the warranty?, How long
is a circuit board governed for and how much does it cost to replace
one?, Do they warranty their searchcoils, and if so, what are the
limitations?, Will your claim be honored beyond a limited time?
By all means find out what the exclusions are before you buy. Ask
tough questions and expect sound answers with no wishy-washy responses.
Where's The Best Place To Buy?
Independent metal detector dealers can be an invaluable aid to you. With
few exceptions, they will be the best informed. And contrary to
what you might expect, most are genuinely interested in helping
you become successful in the hobby of metal detecting and not just out to make a quick
sale.
An honest, competent dealer will be willing to take the time to
assist you in selecting a detector well-suited to your requirements.
In fact, he will probably insist on it. He knows that this initial
extra effort will ensure your lasting satisfaction, both with him
and the detector he sells you. Do, however, watch out for those
dealers who try to steer you toward a "bargain. These are often
discontinued models, trouble models, or obsolete used machines that
he is trying to unload on an uneducated person. The same is often
true with some manufacturer's package deals. If the package is not
being offered to introduce a new model, it is probably a slow seller,
one that they are overstocked in. Also be aware that some discounters
liquidate brands no longer being manufactured. The friendship and
guidance of a good dealer can make all the difference both before
and after the sale. Assuming you've made your selection, it is time
to decide where to purchase. Either a local dealer or a factory
authorized mail order firm can supply the detector. The difference
is the nature and extent of their additional services to you. A
good local metal detecting dealer will offer personal service, first hand instruction,
his expertise and much more. He will check out your detector before
you take delivery to make certain everything is operating properly
and complete-your warranty registration making sure it is validated
for you. They will help with minor adjustments, loan you a spare
metal detector in the unlikely event yours needs service, and handle arrangements
for service on your behalf. Buying at the local level does not guarantee
you this type of special attention, so it is advisable to check
into the dealer's written customer service policy before you buy.
Mail order firms cannot offer the same type of in-person service
as individual dealers. Some may be merely order takers, so to speak,
and may rely solely on a lower price to attract customers. In considering
this option, be sure you're not going to need a dealer's expertise,
instruction, or any of their other services. Give it some thought
before you decide.
Comparing Brands
All manufacturers like to think they build the finest metal detectors. Truthfully, most of the major companies are good,
but how can they all be "the best"? Deciding between them
isn't easy, because of all their conflicting claims, catchy slogans,
convincing advertising, and marketing razzle-dazzle. Every brand
of detector is separated by engineering design concepts and philosophies.
It is hard to sort these out and understand them all, and that makes
it easy to become swayed by glossy ads, fast talk, package deals,
and sales pressure. Be patient, and if at all possible get a hands-on
demonstration where you can evaluate your choices over a test plot
that has actual buried targets. Test the features for yourself and
make sure the metal detector operates as you have been led to believe
it would.
Once you've gotten this far along, you're going to have a pretty
good idea of who means business and who's "blowing smoke".
One Last Word Of Advice
Don't expect instant success while metal detecting after you buy a new detector. Regardless
of the type, brand, or model you choose, it will require time, practice, and plenty of perseverance to fully understand what your new
metal detector is telling you and to achieve its full potential.
Regardless how long you've been using detectors or what experience
you have, read and study the operator's manual before dashing out
to use it. When it finally comes together, it will be more than
worth the effort. I hope you enjoy this great hobby of metal detecting.
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